Sweet potatoes are the crop that made me a believer in having my soil tested as part of my pre-garden prepping. I got lucky the first year I planted them, and had a beautiful harvest of large, tasty tubers. The second year I was not so lucky, and while I had luscious and healthy greens, I got barely any potatoes, the ones I did pull were stunted and scrawny. The culprit? Too much nitrogen in my soil! When you have high levels of nitrogen in your soil naturally or because of things you are adding, wood chips and chicken poop for example you will get lots of leaf growth, but very little fruit development.
Do yourself a favor and contact your county extension agency to find out how to conduct your own soil test. This will give you a good baseline on your soil health, and what you can safely add as a fertilizer without throwing things out of balance.
If it is too late this season to get a soil test in time for planning and planting, when it comes to feeding your sweet potatoes err on the side of caution and use a fertilizer that is lower in nitrogen than it is in potassium and phosphorus. Bone meal, kelp meal, and green sand are my favorite organic choices for sweet potatoes that are lower in nitrogen than potassium and phosphorus.
Sweet potatoes are not heavy feeders, so these should just be an occasional snack if your soil is less than ideal. Follow these 5 easy tips and you will soon be able to brag about the 2 pound or more big sweet potatoes you dug up this year! Sign in close. Here are a few of the veterans featured on today's show. Check out this edition of Wikiwho? Court's Fashion Forum Pt.
This time, it's part 2 of Fashion Forum and we're discussing the red carpet outfits from last night's Country Music Awards! Cody is here with a joke to make your kids laugh or groan at breakfast this morning. Plant seed potato segments cut-side down eyes up in a 6-inch-deep hole or trench. Space each segment inches apart on all sides. Between each segment, sprinkle 2 tablespoons of a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorous fertilizer. Then cover both potatoes and fertilizer with 2-inches of soil, and water the soil well.
This will vary depending on where you live. A good rule of thumb is to aim for weeks prior to your last frost date. When the green sprouts achieve 8 inches in height, bury all but their top 4 inches with soil, chopped straw, or shredded leaves.
Hill again when potato plants grow another 8 inches. The more you hill, the more prolific your harvest is likely to be. I usually hill mine to a height of 18 inches. Stop hilling when the vines flower. Potato tubers, like vampires, need to live in darkness. In fact, they will turn green if exposed to light. And a green potato can cause sickness if consumed.
Therefore it is absolutely essential to keep the tubers covered with soil or mulch. Two weeks after the vines have flowered, you can, if you wish, reach into the soil or mulch and retrieve a few baby potatoes. Her: Aim for Potato Garden! Me: Fire the capsicum! Deploy the celery team! Her: Bring in the egg plant division to support the capsicum! Her: We had better bring the lettuce up to date! Me: The leeks are down! They'll be flattened if we don't do something!
Are the spinach still operational? Her: Too bad the pepper isn't on our side, they're well seasoned troops. Spinach is a go! Nothing has touched it Me: But wait! We still have the chillies to give them heavy fire! Her: And the squashes and peas! The basil should make things interesting, send them to aid the potatoes.
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